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When curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. Yet, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.